01 · Where shipping fits in the order
Shipping clothing from China starts long before the cartons are packed.
Freight is usually the last thing a buyer thinks about and the first thing an order quietly depends on. The mode, the trade term and the destination requirements all shape decisions made weeks earlier — how goods are packed, how they are labelled, even how the style is folded. Treating shipping as a transport booking rather than an order parameter is how timelines slip and costs surprise.
- What moves
- Carton dimensions, weight and how efficiently the style uses the space decide the freight basis before any carrier is involved.
- Who is responsible
- The trade term in the quotation allocates cost and risk between factory and buyer at a named point in the journey.
- What the destination demands
- Labelling, documents and classification rules at arrival can change both the paperwork and the product itself.
This guide explains those three layers in buyer language. It publishes no rates and no transit promises — those are per-shipment facts confirmed against a live quotation.
02 · Trade terms in plain language
Incoterms®: the three-letter code that says who pays for what.
The trade terms used in quotations are the Incoterms® rules — eleven three-letter terms published by the International Chamber of Commerce, each defining the tasks, costs and risks each side carries in the delivery of goods.[1] Garment buyers meet four of them most often:
- EXW — Ex Works
- Goods at the factory door. Everything after that — export clearance, freight, insurance, import — is the buyer's cost and risk. Maximum buyer control, maximum buyer workload.
- FOB — Free On Board
- The factory delivers onto the vessel at the named port; the buyer takes it from there. The working middle ground for ocean freight — the buyer controls the main carriage, the factory handles export.
- CIF — Cost, Insurance and Freight
- The factory pays the main carriage and insurance to the destination port, but risk still passes earlier than cost does. Common, and frequently misread as "delivered" — it is not.
- DDP — Delivered Duty Paid
- The factory delivers to the destination with duties paid. Maximum factory responsibility — which is why it is uncommon in genuine manufacturing relationships and common in trading-company offers.
An EXW quote and an FOB quote for the same order are different numbers describing different scopes. Any comparison between suppliers must hold the trade term constant — otherwise the difference you are measuring is the term, not the factory.
03 · Air, sea and courier
Air freight vs sea freight for clothing: cost, speed and when each makes sense.
- Sea freight. The default for production volumes. Cost per garment is lowest, transit is measured in weeks, and the cost is driven by volume (cubic metres) as much as weight — folded garments in well-planned cartons use space efficiently. Variants exist: full container (FCL) versus shared container (LCL), with LCL adding consolidation time at both ends.
- Air freight. Days rather than weeks, at a multiple of the cost, charged mainly on weight. For garments it is a tool for specific situations — a launch date, a replenishment shortfall, a missed season window — not a baseline.
- Courier / express. For samples, counter-samples and documents. Fast and simple, priced per shipment, unsuitable for production volumes.
The planning insight most buyers learn the hard way: air freight is rarely a logistics decision. It is the price of a decision made late. A style that ships by air "because we had no choice" usually had its choice several weeks earlier, in sampling or approval timing.
Material and freight input prices move between quotation and production — commodity and transport markets are documented, and they do not hold still while an order is manufactured.[3]
04 · Documents the order generates
The cartons are half the shipment. The paperwork is the other half.
International trade runs on documents, and payment under formal structures releases against them rather than against the goods.[2] A standard garment shipment carries, among others:
- Commercial invoice and packing list. What the goods are, what they are worth and how they are packed — the basis for customs valuation at destination.
- Bill of lading / air waybill. The transport contract and document of title, depending on mode.
- Certificate of origin. Declares where goods were produced; relevant to duty treatment at destination.
- Export declaration. Filed on the Chinese side; a standard part of the factory-side export process.
- Test or compliance reports. Where the destination market or the buyer's own standard requires them.
Two practical rules. First, document details must match each other exactly — discrepancies that would pass between friends will stop a shipment or delay a letter-of-credit payment. Second, the buyer's market decides what is mandatory: destination requirements are the buyer's to confirm.[5]
How the goods are packed decides half of that paperwork before it is written. The garment packing guide covers the polybag, carton and marking decisions that stand behind the packing list.
05 · Duty, tax and classification
The landed cost is decided by a classification code, not by the freight bill.
At destination, imported clothing is classified under a commodity code, and that code — driven by the product's material, construction and sometimes its production method — sets the duty and tax treatment.[4] The same style can sit in different classifications with different duty outcomes depending on details that are fixed at specification time, long before shipping.
- Who is the importer of record depends on the trade term — and with it, who files, who pays duty and who carries the delay risk.
- Rules of origin can change the duty position entirely for some markets, which is one of the structural considerations in any origin comparison.
- Rates and rules change. Confirm the current official tariff source for your market and shipment, or use qualified advice, rather than carrying a previous season's assumption.[5]
Which body writes the label in each market is a separate question, and the United States, the United Kingdom and Australia answer it differently. The market-by-market labelling map names the instrument and the enforcing authority for each.
06 · Why freight cost moves
Freight is a market. Treat its line in the quotation accordingly.
Transport pricing responds to capacity, fuel and season the way any commodity market does — which is why a freight figure inside a quotation has a validity window, and why a quote refreshed a month later can differ on the freight line alone.[3]
- Seasonality. Capacity tightens ahead of retail peaks; space and rates move with it.
- Volume versus weight. Garments are light for their bulk, so how the cartons use the space moves the cost as much as the kilograms do.
- Route and fuel inputs. The same lane priced in different months can legitimately produce different numbers.
The buyer-side habit this supports: keep the freight line visible in the quotation rather than blended into the garment price, so both sides can see what moved when a number changes.
07 · Who books the freight
FOB or EXW changes who controls the main carriage — and that is a real choice.
- Buyer books (EXW/FOB). The buyer's forwarder controls the main carriage. This suits brands with existing freight relationships, consolidated shipments from multiple suppliers, or a forwarder they trust with their market's quirks.
- Factory arranges (CIF/DDP). The factory or its agent books carriage to a named point. Simpler for the buyer, less visibility over the carriers used, and the buyer depends on the factory's network pricing.
Whichever side books, the other side's obligations do not disappear — they shift earlier or later in the chain. What matters is that the quotation names the term and both sides read the same definition of it.[1]
08 · Receiving and checking
The shipment is not finished when it arrives. It is finished when it is checked.
- Check against the packing list on arrival: carton count, styles, colourway split and quantities against what shipped.
- Inspect before the balance moves where the payment structure still allows it — see the payment terms guide for why the balance and the inspection belong to the same conversation.
- Record issues against the sealed sample and the specification, not against memory or opinion.
- Keep the documents — invoice, packing list, transport document — together with the order record. They are the reference for every future dispute, claim or reorder.
09 · Where timing is really lost
Shipping delays are usually made upstream and discovered at the port.
- Specification drift. A late material change resets trims, labels and sometimes classification — each with its own lead time.
- Approval gaps. Every unanswered sample comment delays everything downstream of it, including the booking window.
- Carton and label preparation. Shipping marks, packing lists and destination labelling prepared late hold finished goods in the warehouse.
- Document mismatches. Invoice details that disagree with the packing list can cost more days than the entire ocean leg.
- Mode panic. The accumulated weeks then get bought back at air-freight prices.
Almost every item on that list is an approval-process problem wearing a logistics costume. A realistic garment lead time therefore includes the shipping leg and the preparation leg — which is why factory-side timing bands and buyer-side readiness have to be planned as one chain, not negotiated as two.
10 · Planning the whole chain
Five decisions made early make shipping boring — which is the goal.
- Fix the trade term in the quotation, and hold it constant when comparing suppliers.[1]
- Choose the mode by order shape, and budget air freight as a contingency with a trigger, not a surprise.
- Confirm destination requirements — classification, labelling, documents — against the current official sources for your market.[4]
- Prepare documents to match, and check them against each other before the goods move.
- Put the shipping leg inside the order calendar rather than after it, so the booking window is a planned date, not a scramble.
When the question shifts from how shipping works to which trade term, timing and cost boundary apply to a specific order, see sourcing and commercial terms. For how the freight line fits the wider budget, continue with the cost guide.